The Christians of Kurdistan
Every day the church bells of Ankawa compete with the muezzin's call to prayer. The oddness, the sheer unexpectedness of that familiar sound in such an antipodal setting, hits me every single time. This part of the world's recent history has been the opposite of peaceful, descending into the barbaric with the arrival of ISIS in 2014. But it was a place once remarkable for long periods of diversity and tolerance, with Sunni and Shia, Christians, Jews, Shabak, Yazidis, Kakai and numerous other ethnic minorities co-existing. But the spasms of violence when they came - either from within or without - were, well, biblical. Outside forces - the Mongols and Ottomans chief among them - regularly visited genocidal violence on a massive scale on the lands now known as Iraq. (Up to 2 million were killed during the Mongol siege of Baghdad in 1358.) Alexander the Great was here. But there were also fratricidal massacres visited upon neighbors for religious, tribal or, later, p...